Rear Disc Brakes Installed[/caption]
After wrapping up the front 5 lug conversion using the SVE 13″ Cobra brakes and SN-95 Spindles, we moved straight into the rear brake setup. This section of the install requires the most intensive labor – some modifications will be needed. During Part 2 you will be opening up the differential to remove the rear axles. This is a good opportunity to review some other preventative/predictive maintenance opportunities while you have the rear of the car in the air. If you have been thinking about adding rear end gears, fixing that failing axle seal, replacing those old axle bearings or leaky differential cover gasket, now is the time to do it! Don’t forget the other suspension upgrades such as rear control arms and shocks if they are due for an upgrade.
Before you rip those ugly drum brakes off the rear end, let me cover the specialty tools that you will want to be sure you have before you start. One is a brake line flaring tool. The other is a good set of line wrenches. These can be picked up at your local tool supplier – Craftsman (Sears), or other major tool distributor. You will also need a catch can for the old differential fluid. Other than these tools, you will find everything else in your typical 100+ piece “tool kit”. As with the Part 1 of the SVE 5 Lug Conversion Kit, simply follow each step below to walk you through the installation process. Our sales/customer service team is also available to answer questions you may have about any of our products – (254) 296-6500.
Axle Tear Down:
With your Mustang up in the air & properly supported, remove your rear wheels & then the drums. Make sure the parking brake isn’t set, or you’ll never get those drums off! Place a suitable drain pan under the rear axle. Next remove 9 of the 10 bolts retaining the diff cover. Loosen the 10th one & leave it in place so that the cover doesn’t go flying off & oil splatters everywhere. Use a gasket scraper or flat blade screwdriver to break the seal of the RTV between the cover and housing and let the gear oil drain. Remove the 10th bolt and the differential cover. Using a 5/16″ box end wrench and a lot of pressure, remove the differential cross pin retaining bolt. Remove the cross pin, push in one axle shaft at a time and remove the retaining c-clips. A small telescoping pocket magnet helps with the c-clip removal. Remove both axle shafts. Keep a rag handy as they will have oil on them. Now is a great time to replace your axle bearings & seals! (We had the rear sway bar removed in the following photos, it is not necessary for you to remove your swaybar to complete this conversion.)
Draining Differential Fluid[/caption]
Differential Cross Pin and Bolt[/caption]
Brake Tear Down:
Once the axles are out, clean up a bit and move inside the car. Remove the console top panel and have someone underneath the car grab the equalizer bar on the front e-brake cable while you pull the cable toward the rear of the car about 2″ or until the holes in the handle & spring wheel are aligned. Insert a pin (an allen wrench works great) in the holes to keep the spring tension assembly in the released position. Remove the parking brake cable ends from the equalizer bar. Remove the bolts that retain the cable to the chassis of the car. Using a 9/16″ box end wrench, slide it over the end of the cable and release the retaining clip. Pull the cable free from the chassis. (Mustangs from 87-92 will have the retaining clip located near the frame rail. If you’re working on a 1993, it clips to a bracket just behind the front cable & equalizer bar.) Now, take a look at the 4 bolts/nuts that hold on the drum brake backing plate. Remove the bolts & nuts and set them aside as you will reuse them later. Clean the axle flange to remove any rust or scale that may be present.
Parking Brake Equalizer[/caption]
Parking Brake Handle Tension Release[/caption]
Parking Brake Cable Bracket[/caption]
Parking Brake Cable Retaining Clip[/caption]
Brake Brackets & Axle Installation:
Using the 4 nuts & bolts removed earlier, attach the North Racecars Caliper Adapter Axle Flanges. Install the included lug studs in your new Moser Axles and slide your axles back in place, securing them with their c-clips. Re-install the differential cross pin and retain it with the cross pin bolt. Do not over tighten! While you can use RTV to re-seal your diff cover, we like using the LubeLocker gasket. Much cleaner & no dry time! Re-install your differential cover and refill the axle housing with the included Royal Purple Gear Oil & FRPP Friction Modifier. A suction gun (can be found at your local auto parts store) makes the refill process much easier.
Installing New Caliper Bracket[/caption]
New Rear Axle Installed[/caption]
Removing the lower shock bolt will allow for extra working room while flaring the line. Install your new braided rear brake hoses. (Since this installation we have changed suppliers on our brake hoses & the bracket is now part of the hose, not a separate piece as illustrated below.) Your axle housing may or may not have the holes needed to attach the rear hose. If not, bust out your drill & 1/4″ drill bit and make 2 holes per side. One is for the locating tab and the other is for the retaining bolt. Retain the hoses using the supplied retaining bolts. Mark your existing axle-mounted brake hardline at the length needed to comfortably connect it to the hose. Err on the side of long if anything. Cut the line and install the included brake line nuts. Now on to using the flare tool! If you’ve never used one before, there are several good youtube videos on how to make a successful double flare. Clamp the line in the flaring block and insert the correct collet for the line size. Use the flare tool to make the first part of the double flare. Remove the collet and make the second part of the flare using the flaring tool. Remove the flaring block. Attach the hard line to the braided hose. Install the Center Axle Braided Brake Hose. Although we didn’t get any pictures of this, it is a straightforward removal & replacement.
Rear Center Brake Line[/caption]
Rear Center Brake Line[/caption]
Install the rear rotors and slide on the new calipers. Attach the calipers to the axle flange brackets using the included hardware. Attach the brake hose to the caliper using the new copper washers and banjo bolts included in the package with the rear brake hoses. Re-install the lower shock bolts.
Slide your new parking brake cables through the chassis and engage the retaining clips. Install the ends into the equalizer bar. Remove the retaining brackets from the old cables and install them on the new cables. Use the original bolts to attach them to the chassis. Remove the front bolt from the rear swaybar. Install the included parking brake cable guides over the cable and retain the guide to the rear control arm with the sway bar bolt. Install the rear cable ends in the parking brake levers on the calipers. Go back inside the car & remove the pin (or allen wrench) from the e-brake handle. Re-install the console top panel. Congratulations – You have just completed the rear portion of a Fox Mustang 5 lug, 4-wheel disc swap!
Front Parking Brake Connection[/caption]